How to Prevent Car Windows from Fogging Up Do?


January 2019

Finally losing patience when there’s fog covering your car windows?

Well, you should be scared, too.

Fog sounds harmless since it’s pretty common, but low visibility can cause fatal accidents. That’s why you should learn how to prevent car windows from fogging up.

Before we proceed to the tips, let’s understand first why fogging occurs. This is important so you can easily understand the logic behind some strange solutions we’ll discuss later.

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Car Windows Experience Fog Due To Condensation

In general, condensation happens when moisture from warm air comes into contact with a cold surface. Now, what exactly happens when we talk about car windows?

According to, when warm air inside the passenger compartment meets cold glass, the windows get blurry. That’s why fogging is common during cold weather.

A perfect way to prove this concept is by breathing close to the window inside the car when it’s really cold outside. Since your breath is naturally warm and full of moisture, it will instantly create a mark on the window.

Aside from breathing, there are other instances where people unconsciously enhance moisture or warmth inside a vehicle. Here are five common examples:

  • Wet clothes
  • Snow (which will eventually melt) dragged by boots
  • Damp car flooring
  • Hot food
  • Couples getting intimate (we’re surprised, too!)

Sometimes, the concept of condensation can be reversed as well, especially if car windows are concerned. If it’s hot outside while it’s cold inside your car, fogging may also occur. However, it’s not as intense as the original idea since cold air contains less moisture.

Next, we’re going to discuss what you should do when it starts to fog. This will be the consequence if you won’t make some preventive measures. Don’t worry; we’ll talk about prevention later.

The Solution To Fogging Car Windows Depends On The Weather

We prepared two sets of instructions because – let’s face it – it’s not always cold outside. If it’s a sunny day, you need to use another method.

Cold Weather

Of course, if it’s a cold day, you would prefer to activate the heater. Unfortunately, that will lead to fogging. In case you experience that, do the following steps:

1. Adjust the heater to its highest setting.
2. Activate the air conditioner.
3. Turn off recirculation mode.
4. Slightly open the car windows for a few minutes.
The reason why you have to max out the heater is to produce more moisture inside the car. That doesn’t make sense for now, but wait until we explain the next step.

Once you activate the AC, it will absorb a big amount of moisture inside the car in an efficient manner. Then, when you turn off recirculation, dry air finally enters your area.

The last step is for a more thorough defogging. When you crack a window, the colder air outside will completely eliminate humid air inside the vehicle.

Hot Weather

Just like the first method, you also have to regulate the temperature inside the car when it’s sunny outside. So, you clearly have to make the interior warm, too.

The tricky part is this: condensation is on the exterior surface of the car window. You have to wipe the window clean from outside. At least with windshields, you just have to use the wipers.

To defog the outer part of the windows, you have no choice but to make a little sacrifice by dealing with hot weather for a while.

What you need to do is simply adjust the AC to its lowest setting. You might even have to turn it off if the fog keeps on appearing. You should also turn off recirculation mode.

If you don’t mind the wind, just open the car windows. It can be uncomfortable to deal with hot weather if the AC is low and the windows are closed.

How to Prevent Car Windows from Fogging Up

You can avoid the hassle of defogging if you know how to maintain clean car windows. Nobody wants to shiver or sweat inside the car just to eliminate condensation.

Before we get to the weird stuff, here are the basic preventive measures:

    • Clean your car windows regularly so they can resist moisture remove adhesives carefully if ever to avoid permanent white streaks on the glass).
    • Park with two open windows if its safe (especially if you have an adult present inside).
    • If you are alone, crack the second-row windows (one inch) when you park your car.
    • Open the front windows if your car is in a garage.

Finally, we’re now going to discuss two strange methods that are surprisingly effective for defogging.

The Potato Method

For some reason, moisture from potatoes makes fogging less likely to happen. After cleaning your windows, here’s what you should do:

1. Slice a potato in half.
2. Wipe the potato’s flesh all over the window (cut a small portion of the potato if there’s dirt buildup on it).
3. Remove streaks of the potato’s starch, if any.
4. Wipe the flesh again to the surfaces where you removed starch streaks (be careful not to create more streaks).
5. Leave the windows untouched for five minutes.

Don’t hesitate to use more than one potato if it’s not enough for covering all car windows. You may also use spoiled potatoes to avoid using ones that are still fresh for consumption.

The Cat Litter Method

We saved the most interesting one for last. According to Bustle, cat litter is excellent at absorbing moisture.

So, should you also put cat litter on car windows? Here are the steps:

1. Position a big roll of tape across one sock.
2. Pour cat litter into the roll which serves as a funnel.
3. Wrap the sock with another sock.
4. Place the bundle of cat litter anywhere in the passenger compartment.

Don’t expect this method to work instantly. It will need days for completely absorbing moisture in your car. Remember, it is a long-term solution, not an emergency defogging option.

In Conclusion

To avoid the tricky defogging techniques, learn how to prevent car windows from fogging up. The long-term solutions will keep you comfortable inside the car no matter how hot or cold the weather is.

Clean car windows aren’t only important for resisting moisture. Find out how important they are in case you sell your vehicle.

If you’re looking for car essentials, we have a list of things you should keep in your vehicle. The list includes products designed for car windows.

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Six Ways You Could Be Killing Your Car


January, 2019

Owning a car can be a dream or a nightmare depending on how well you take care of your vehicle, says the non-profit Car Care Council. The following are six things that many motorists do that can harm their car and their wallet.

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1. Ignoring the check engine light.

Ignoring an illuminated check engine light can result in serious engine trouble and costly repairs. At the very least, this warning light could alert you to an engine problem that is negatively impacting fuel economy.

2. Failing to change fluids and filters.

Many fluids are required for the operation and protection of vehicle systems and components. Checking fluid levels regularly, along with the filters, helps ensure that your vehicle runs dependably and extends vehicle life.

3. Neglecting your tires.

Neglecting your tires. Your vehicle’s tires should be checked frequently for inflation and tread depth. Underinflated tires can wear out more quickly, needing to be replaced sooner, and can negatively impact safety, gas mileage and performance.

4. Not following a service schedule.

Because many car parts and components wear out or become damaged over time, vehicles need to be routinely serviced in order to perform optimally. Routine inspections and timely repairs will help keep your car running efficiently and will help you avoid more expensive repairs down the road.

5. Keeping a dirty car.

Allowing your car to go too long without a wash leads to buildup of damaging chemicals and dirt, increases the potential for rust from road salt and interferes with proper visibility needed for safe driving.

6. Being a severe driver.

Whether it’s stop-and-go traffic, extreme weather, rough roads or heavy loads, it can sometimes be difficult to limit severe driving conditions. However, you can drive smart and improve fuel economy by observing the speed limit; avoiding aggressive driving, including quick starts and stops; not hauling unnecessary items; and keeping your vehicle properly tuned.

“Because auto care isn’t always a top priority for car owners, they might not realize they are doing things that adversely affect the performance, safety and value of their car,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Routine maintenance can go a long way toward saving money, avoiding headaches and protecting your vehicle investment.”

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Car Polishing Tips


December 2018

Polishing your car can make it look shiny and new while getting rid of tiny scratches.

We all love the way our cars looked when they came out fresh from the showroom. The smooth paint finish without blemishes, scratches or stains made us feel happy and proud. One can keep the car is similar state for a long time by caring for it correctly. And, it’s never too late to start caring, for polishing alone can get rid of most paint imperfections, scratches and stains. Although polishing is best left to the experts, you too can try your hand at polishing your own car at home.

Car Care Tips

Here are some tips and techniques to remember while polishing your car.

Wash your car well first. Make sure all bird dirt stains and remnants are removed as much as possible. Make sure your car is clear of all tar and much stains. Make sure you use some sort of automotive-based shampoo or cleaner in the water so as to give the best finish possible. After washing the car, do not dry it off.

If you are using a polish wheel, make sure your car is in an isolated space. The splatters from using a wheel are messy and can cause stains on walls or other cars around you. Place a new, clean and very slightly damp pad on the polishing wheel and apply a moderate amount of compound on one body panel. Spread the polish with the wheel, using medium speed. The key is to keep the spinning polishing pad parallel to the car’s surface to avoid swirl marks.

Applying constant pressure and working back and forth over the entire surface of the panel is the key to a good polished surface.  As the clear coat heats up and the paint becomes warm to the touch, scratches that are not very deep will begin slowly to disappear. When the compound and water are thrown aside and absorbed by the foam pad, the brightened finish will become visible. Remember to periodically wash the swirl pad to prevent it from becoming saturated with the polish compound.

Once you have done this across your car’s surface, wash the car all over again with water. Use a new and soft towel to wipe the water off the car before you move on to the next step. It is essential to make sure all the polish remnants from places like door gaps, locks and crevices are wiped clean before you move forward with the waxing process.

Applying wax on your car’s freshly polished surfaced was immortalised by Mr. Miyagi from the original Karate Kid movie. The Wax On-Wax Off technique holds true, though. Applying a coat of wax to the paint will help mask swirl marks and cover up most remaining surface imperfections. Mount a soft foam pad on a rotary polisher or you can do the waxing process by hand. Remember to use a moderate amount of waxing compound though. If you do use a sander, use it at a medium or slower speed to spread the wax evenly. Done well, this technique can completely transform the look of your car.

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2018 Maruti Suzuki Ertiga Review, Test Drive


December 2018

The first-gen Ertiga was a big success thanks to its easy-to-drive character, compact dimensions (relative to sedans), the versatility of seven seats, and efficient engines, including a CNG option. And while the car itself was very competent, its aggressive pricing and Maruti’s widespread support network played catalysts to this success. Six years and 4.20 lakh sales later, Maruti has launched the second-generation of this MPV. It sees an increase in its dimensions, space, fuel efficiency, and overall premium feel. The good news doesn’t end there – Maruti has also priced it in the ballpark of the earlier car, so it retains its value proposition too.

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What Is It?

Spilling a can of cola or a dollop of ketchup is a sure shot way of ruining your car’s interiors. As with most things in life, the best way to avoid this is by not eating or drinking in your car. Although most people would find this unreasonable, not eating in your car can also help you in many other ways. For example, crumbs falling off your favourite sandwich can attract both rodents and insects like ants and cockroaches, which can in turn lead to more headaches in the long term.

The first-gen car wore a no-nonsense design, with a very van-like profile, bu the new Ertiga features a more contemporary styling that makes it look far more desirable. The swept-back projector headlamps, the attractive chrome-studded grille, and its flattish bonnet might remind you of the Toyota Innova Crysta at first glance, but there are several smaller elements that give it a distinct identity. The side profile is amply fresh with a new chiselled waistline, chrome door handles and multi-spoke wheels, and the blacked-out D-pillar lends a floating roof-like appearance. Further adding to the car’s appeal are the ‘L’-shaped stretched-out LED tail-lamps that look like they belong on a Volvo.

What Is It Like Inside?

Like on the outside, the new interiors are an evolution of the outgoing version. There’s an air of familiarity here because several bits like the flat-bottom steering, instrument cluster, gear lever, touchscreen, knobs, and controls are shared with other Marutis. The dashboard is split by an artificial wood finish on the Z and Z+ variants, which does look, well, artificial. However, the dummy air vent running across the breadth of the dash, inspired by the new Audis, looks quite good, while the actual vents feel more premium than before. There’s a lot more to like in the cabin, like the ease of ingress-egress thanks to the Ertiga’s tall stance and wide-opening doors. The front seats are larger, more supportive and very comfortable thanks to the soft cushioning. A new sliding front armrest adds to the driving comfort too.

Space inside has been enhanced a fair bit. The second row still gets recline and fore-aft adjustment (in a 40:60 ratio), and the humongous window and tall ceiling add to the sense of space here. Having a flat floor helps too; the third passenger would be a touch comfier here now, thanks to the increased shoulder room. Further adding to the comfort is a dedicated roof-mounted blower with four fan speeds, just like the outgoing car.

Accessing the third row has been made easier by the one-touch mechanism to slide forward the middle row. It doesn’t flip forward like in the Marazzo but there’s enough to space to clamber in without much difficulty. What’s impressive is that even adults can sit here without feeling too cramped, and what also frees them of the claustrophobic feeling – usually experienced in the last row of many seven-seaters – is the massive quarter glass. Crucially, this row now gets a recline function for more comfort; taller occupants, however, will find their heads brushing against the sloping roofline, in the reclined position.

There are several practical bits like a new front armrest console, segment-first cooled cupholders, bottle holders in each door, and charging outlets in each row – these should have been the modern USB chargers, rather than the old 12V sockets, though. Boot space is now at a much larger 209 litres, but can be further expanded to 550 litres and 803 litres by folding the seats. There’s even a useful storage area beneath the boot floor to stow items out of sight.

What Is It Like To Drive?

The Ertiga is powered by a brand-new K15 1462cc petrol engine that debuted in the facelifted Ciaz. Power has been bumped up to 105hp and torque to 138Nm – a healthy increase of 13hp and 8Nm over the 1.4-litre unit that it replaces. Just like in the Ciaz, this motor features a mild-hybrid system which gets support from two batteries. Apart from the regular battery, there’s one lithium-ion pack placed under the passenger seat, which provides a small amount of additional boost to the petrol engine. In the real world though, the battery boost is negligible, and it’s only when the graphics on the MID displays the transfer of power that you know the mild hybrid system is working. The energy recouped when the car decelerates, is used to recharge this lithium-ion battery. Another feature of this hybrid system is the engine start-stop system that works seamlessly in stop-go traffic; most, however, would turn this feature off, especially during summer, because it cuts off the air-con compressor, leaving only the blower running.

Belonging to the same family of engines, this new 1.5-litre petrol’s character is near identical to the 1.4-litre unit it replaces – this means it is smooth and very refined. Driving in the city, it performs effortlessly with adequate power available at lower revs. It gets off the line easily and is quick to respond initially. However, demand a quick overtake and it does warrant a shift to a lower gear and needs to be spun harder. The mid-range is flat and so is the top end, with no noticeable spike in the powerband. It gets noisy beyond 3,500rpm, and even though it can spin all the way until 6,200rpm, progress at higher revs is slow and the engine tends to sound strained. However, as long as you’re not in a hurry, the petrol will impress you with its smoothness, refinement, and efficiency, which is claimed at 19.34kpl for the 5-speed MT and 18.69kpl for the 4-speed AT, an improvement of 1.84kpl and 1.66kpl, respectively.

The Ertiga petrol-automatic is a rather old-school, 4-speed torque converter, with the first three gears being driving gears and the fourth being an overdrive gear to maximise efficiency. This unit is smooth in its operation and it will shift to the highest gear at the earliest to consume lesser fuel. However, the slightest of inputs to the accelerator while cruising and it will need to drop down a gear to get moving. To combat this constant shifting while cruising, there’s an overdrive off button which will keep the car in the first three gears only, thus keeping the engine on the boil. There’s no manual mode but there’s a Low mode which keeps it in the lowest possible gear, useful for uphill sections of road. Only the auto gets ESP and hill-hold.

The diesel Ertiga gets the old, tried-and-tested 1.3-litre Fiat-sourced engine producing 90hp and 200Nm, but what’s good is that fuel efficiency has increased to 25.47kpl (0.95kpl more than before). However, this engine is too loud and clattery while idling and accelerating. Turbo lag still persists below 2,000rpm, and the engine feels dead. Speedbreakers will need to be tackled in first gear and being a smaller-capacity engine, drivers will need to work the gears to build speed briskly, especially while lugging a full load. When spun harder, though, there’s a strong wave of torque that pulls the car forward rather energetically. It’s a free-revving motor and it spins all the way until 5,100rpm, but boost comes in strongest between 2,100 and 4,500rpm, after which it tapers off. The 5-speed manual gearbox is slick with short throws, and the clutch has a short travel and isn’t too heavy either.

The new Ertiga’s ride has an underlying firmness but it performs exceptionally. It rounds off bumps and bad roads competently, and body shocks hardly filter into the cabin. Even at speeds, there’s a newfound planted feel, and vertical movements are barely noticeable, making it more comfortable while cruising on the highway. The Ertiga handles like a tall hatchback, so while there is some roll, it can be driven with enthusiasm around corners with confidence. The steering is adequately weighted and remains predictable at all times.

Should I Buy One?

Maruti has taken the very competent first-gen Ertiga and made it even better. It offers everything that buyers are looking for – space, comfort, value, and desirability. The inclusion of new features and the added interior room make it more practical now, while its ride quality and improved seat comfort further enhance the overall experience.

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What Is A Tune Up? The Most Important Things You Should Know.


December 2018

If you’re a new car owner, hearing that your car needs to undergo an engine tune-up can be overwhelming, particularly if you haven’t heard of that term yet. The truth, however, is that engine tune-ups are part of a car’s routine scheduled maintenance. It’s basic and it’s something that shouldn’t stress you out.

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What’s Involved in a Tune-Up?

Technically speaking, a car tuneup isn’t really new. It’s an outdated service wherein parts of the car are replaced to ensure the vehicle’s maximum efficiency and performance.

A modern tuneup, however, includes cabin air replacements and new spark plugs. The two are part of your car’s maintenance schedule. You can think of it as something similar to the schedule you do in getting an oil change or checking your tire’s

Now, why those two?

Cabin filters aren’t that critical to your car engine’s performance. However, since they can get clogged and create a really poor airflow to the dashboard vents, they need to be checked and changed on a regular basis

Spark plugs, on the other hand, are present on all vehicles. They typically require replacements every 100,000 miles. Failure to replace them can create a lot of problems in your car.

In addition to those two parts, there are modern vehicles that still require certain items to be taken care of routinely.

The list includes the myriad of fluids that are necessary for a car to run, like the transmission fluid, engine oil, and coolant.

Your car’s battery, as well as the surrounding area, should also be assessed during the routine tune-up. The mechanic should check the life and condition of the battery and if there’s any presence of battery acid around the hardware.

Your car’s belts and hoses should be inspected as well. Your mechanic should make sure that the clamps holding the hoses in place are intact and secure. The same applies to the belts. They shouldn’t display any splitting or cracking. If there are defects in the belts, they should be replaced before they even snap and get broken.

Don’t forget your windshield wiper during the tune-up. You wouldn’t want to deal with the annoying squeak of malfunctioning wipers when it rains. Apart from that, be sure to have your mechanic top off the wiper’s fluid. It’ll help you keep your windshield clean and sparkling with just a press of a button.

Your tail lights, headlights, brake lights, and blinkers are essential parts your mechanic shouldn’t miss as well. They need to be functioning well when you’re driving to avoid accidents and problems.

Signs Your Car Needs A Tune-Up

Just like going to a doctor, the first thing that your mechanic will ask you are the changes in the way your car runs that prompted you to ask for a tune-up. In most cases, the following signs and symptoms may suggest that a tune-up is necessary:

Engine Deposits

This is frequently caused by contaminated or low-quality gasoline creating problems with the drivability of your car. The best way to solve that is to do a fuel system cleaning.

Clogged Engine Air Filter

This often results in a small but steady loss of performance. If not addressed right away, it will leave you with a car running like a turtle.

Misfiring Engine

A worn out or fouled spark plug typically causes engines to misfire. Additionally, bad spark plugs can also cause slugging acceleration and hard starting.

Low Fuel Economy

If you’re experiencing reaching fewer miles per gallon, there’s probably something wrong with your spark plug or your air filter is already clogged and dirty. If you notice that the low fuel economy appears with an odd sound, consider scheduling a tuneup right away.

Check Engine Light Turns On

Before you panic, a check engine light doesn’t really mean that there’s something wrong with your car. There are actually a handful of reasons why it would turn on. In some cases, it’s simply caused by a faulty gas cap.

Now, if you notice that the light is flashing, you should consider taking your car to a repair shop soon. It’s usually an indication of something malfunctioning in the system.

Unusual Sounds

A transmission grinding or engine clunking are hard to miss. If you notice any unusual sound in your car and you can’t find where it’s coming from, visit a repair shop.

How Much Does A Tune-Up Cost?

Typically, a minimal car tune-up can cost you around $40 to $150. If you are looking for a more standard tune-up, prepare as much as $200 to $800. That price includes the cost of replacing the wires, rotor, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, changing the oil, and inspection of the car’s systems.

Apart from the cost of the tune-up, expect to pay a small fee for the hourly labor rate of the mechanic. It typically costs between $40 to $90 in repair shops and about $80 to $150 at dealerships.

The prices mentioned can change depending on the location, the parts that need replacement, as well as the required hourly labor rate.

Before you get your car opened and checked, it’s best to ask for the estimated cost of the tune-up. This is to make sure that you don’t end up getting surprised by the total cost you have to pay. Don’t hesitate to ask about discounts as well.

Also, be involved as much as possible. Even if you’re new to owning a car, it doesn’t mean that you can rely completely on your mechanic or repair shop. You can’t expect everyone to be honest with you all the time.


Getting a car tune-up is necessary whether you own a new or used car. It’s a basic part of your car’s routine maintenance. As a new car owner, you should have a clear idea of what a tune-up is, what is involved in the process, how much it costs, and what you can expect after. It also a good idea to be aware of how your car runs as much as possible. That way, you’ll be able to recognize the signs that your car requires a tune-up.

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Basic Seat Care


November 2018

A comfortable and clean set of car seats are essential if one intends to drive comfortably. Here are some tips on how to maintain them….

Your seats are what connect you to your car. Most drivers, especially in India have no idea on how to position their seats for an ideal driving position. That said, a set of dirty seats, is not only a put off for your passengers but can also lead to one getting lower resale value when you want to sell you car. Here are some tips that can help you bring the shine back in your car’s seats.

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Here are some tips that can help you bring the shine back in your car’s seats.

Do not eat or drink in your car

Spilling a can of cola or a dollop of ketchup is a sure shot way of ruining your car’s interiors. As with most things in life, the best way to avoid this is by not eating or drinking in your car. Although most people would find this unreasonable, not eating in your car can also help you in many other ways. For example, crumbs falling off your favourite sandwich can attract both rodents and insects like ants and cockroaches, which can in turn lead to more headaches in the long term.

Use foam based cleaner to clean stains

Using heavy detergents on your fabric seats will most probably end up ruining them. The best thing one can do is used a speciality foam based cleaner to clean the seats. Spray the dirty spot on the seats with the cleaner and rub vigorously for a minute or two till the stain disappears. Wipe the spot thoroughly with a clean and dry soft cloth till the surface feels dry. You can clean your whole car’s upholstery the same way, area by area till you get satisfactory results. If you don’t have access to foam based speciality cleaners, a spoonful of mild detergent mixed with warm water can also give satisfactory results. Remember to always squeeze out as much water from the cloth as possible before starting the cleaning process.

Leather is more delicate than fabric

Spilling a can of cola or a dollop of ketchup is a sure shot way of ruining your car’s interiors. As with most things in life, the best way to avoid this is by not eating or drinking in your car. Although most people would find this unreasonable, not eating in your car can also help you in many other ways. For example, crumbs falling off your favourite sandwich can attract both rodents and insects like ants and cockroaches, which can in turn lead to more headaches in the long term. Although a leather interior may look clean and crisp when new and clean, a neglected leather interior looks (and smells) nasty. Leather though is much more delicate than fabric and needs special care. It is best to use a good product specially formulated for cleaning leather seats. Some leather care products make the leather more shiny or slippery. Other products can make it sticky or tacky, so before using it, test a product in a small area to see if you like it. Don’t use paper towels on leather, they can leave scratches; use a soft clean cotton towel instead. Start with vacuuming leather seat crevices with the soft brush attachment, but be careful, as the vacuum hose can easily scratch the leather. Spray some leather cleaner agent on the soft clean cotton towel and wipe the seat gently, reaching into crevices and around the edges

Leather wrapped steering wheels and gear knobs should never be cleaned with the same agent used to clean seats, as they can get slippery or sticky. The best thing to do is to clean them with a slightly damp soft cloth thoroughly to remove any dust, dirt or fungal growth from them.

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At What Temperature Does Gasoline Freeze?


November 2018

Gasoline is essential as fuel for different modes of transportation. However, like any other liquid, it freezes eventually in certain temperatures. To avoid mechanical issues just because of frozen fuel, at what temperature does gasoline freeze?

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We can understand better the exact answer to the question “At what temperature does gasoline freeze?” by identifying the elements that compose gasoline.

First off, gasoline is not a plain substance. It is not pure at all. Instead, it is a mixture of various hydrocarbons and additives – hundreds in quantity. Common ones are ethanol, toluene, octane, hexane, and heptane. On the other hand, optional ones are butane and pentane depending on a certain area’s winter climate. Most chemicals mentioned can have several structural forms called isomers. That leads to the fact that all things forming gasoline have their own melting point. Obviously, they also have different freezing points.


You might have thought about the answer already based on the fact that gasoline is a mixture. At what temperature does gasoline freeze again? None exactly. Gasoline does not have the so-called freezing point. The same idea goes for candle wax and diesel. Rather, gasoline has a freezing range.

While the temperature is descending, gasoline is changing gradually. The first part is little bits of sediments and gums coming out of the liquid. Next, when it gets extremely cold, the heaviest hydrocarbon molecules like cyclo-heptane and iso-nonane slowly solidify. They would look waxy. Now, when the temperature gets more and more intolerable, gasoline becomes much waxier and slushier until the remaining liquid elements are the lightest molecules.

Meanwhile, some sediments form due to impurities in the gas tank. Cold temperature just makes them even more solid. Fortunately, the filter located in the fuel line can actually catch these sediments. Things get worse only if gasoline becomes extremely waxy. In this stage, we are talking -40 to -200 degrees Fahrenheit. The range is wide since gasoline has various types of mixtures and blends. Another factor is the source of gasoline’s crude oil.

Since refineries can actually tweak a particular mixture of gasoline, they can provide special blends for areas with an extremely cold climate. They can make gasoline have a lower freezing range. An example is ethanol gas.


It is impossible to talk about the symptoms of frozen gasoline. Long before gasoline ever freezes inside the car, the first elements to get frozen are water and water vapor. So, let’s talk about the signs of a frozen fuel line instead. After all, the point of asking “At what temperature does gasoline freeze?” is to prevent extreme winter issues car owners may face.

When both water and water vapor freezes inside the automobile, they block gas in the fuel line from entering the engine. To find out if gasoline is already blocked by frozen water, here are symptoms to watch out for:

Constant Stopping or Sputtering During Movement

Some people find the need to drive their car even if the outdoor temperature gets unbearably cold. The bad news is that no matter how the car generates heat while you are driving, the gas tank can still freeze. You would definitely know if the tank is already malfunctioning due to cold. The car would start to stall or sputter. Actually, even if the tank is still okay, a frozen gas line can still provide this symptom.

Failure to Start

Some people find the need to drive their car even if the outdoor temperature gets unbearably cold. The bad news is that no matter how the car generates heat while you are driving, the gas tank can still freeze. You would definitely know if the tank is already malfunctioning due to cold. The car would start to stall or sputter. Actually, even if the tank is still okay, a frozen gas line can still provide this symptom.

Failure to Turn Over

Some people find the need to drive their car even if the outdoor temperature gets unbearably cold. The bad news is that no matter how the car generates heat while you are driving, the gas tank can still freeze. You would definitely know if the tank is already malfunctioning due to cold. The car would start to stall or sputter. Actually, even if the tank is still okay, a frozen gas line can still provide this symptom.


When push comes to shove, here are practical solutions in thawing a frozen fuel line:

Push your car into an enclosed area.

In the first place, as soon as you hear winter is coming, make sure that your vehicle is in a safe place. It is purely a bad idea to leave your car in the open during winter. In a worst-case scenario such as leaving your car in the front yard overnight until snow falls, the initial step you need to do is to push your car towards the garage. However, make sure that you prepared the area. The garage must be dry and warm to successfully thaw the frozen fuel line. Waiting will take hours, but the whole idea is effective. To speed up waiting time, turn on kerosene or electric heaters inside the garage, specifically facing the car. This makes the thawing process faster to one hour only. Be careful though; cars are really flammable so put a big space between the heat source and the automobile.

In case you would experience a difficult time getting your car out of the snow, check out how to make the first attempt and proceed to plan B if necessary.

Put antifreeze additives in the tank.

No matter what season it is, go to an automobile parts store and purchase antifreeze additives. These treatments are very useful during winter, so always remember to have one in your garage. It is recommended to put two to three bottles of antifreeze treatments into the tank. You still have to wait for a few hours to let the antifreeze completely mix with the fuel, but it really works. You can also make the waiting time faster. Just rock the car back and forth to make the antifreeze blend with the gasoline quickly.


To avoid all the hassle of thawing a frozen fuel line, prevention is key. Here are some tips on how to keep the fuel line from freezing aside from keeping the car inside your garage:

Keep the tank full.

This lessens moisture in the system. Water vapor is the main culprit for freezing fuel lines after all. Condensation produces water, and we all know that water freezes in cold temperature.

Add antifreeze treatment.

Antifreeze is both a solution and a prevention factor when it comes to frozen fuel lines. Just make sure to follow the product’s instructions.


For the last time, at what temperature does gasoline freeze? The exact answer is none. Gasoline is composed of various elements with different freezing points. So, basically, it does not have a freezing point. Rather, it has a range of temperatures that gradually change the fuel’s original liquid form. Based on various types of gasoline mixtures and blends, the usual range is -40 to -200 degrees Fahrenheit. Gasoline is already considered frozen if it turns into a thick sludge or wax. To totally avoid frozen gasoline inside the car, focus on preventing the fuel line from freezing during winter. When you take good care of the fuel line, prevention of frozen gasoline follows.

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What You Need to Know About Baby and Child Seat Laws


November 2018

There’s no question that when travelling in a car, the safest place for a young child is the back seat.

But what might seem like common sense to some isn’t necessarily sensible to others, so there are firm laws set around keeping your kiddos safe from harm in the event of an accident.

At what age is your little one safe to sit in the front seat? Sit tight, we’ll help you figure that out.

There are different laws in each Australian state and territory that regulate which car seat you need for your child from birth to 16 years, so make sure you check your local laws via the links at the end of this article.

Now, let’s take a good look at common laws so you can make educated choices when it comes to the safety of your little one/s.

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Baby and Child Seat Laws

Baby Seats

A newborn child should always be securely fastened into a rear-facing child seat, like an infant capsule or a convertible car seat specifically designed for newborn babies.

The seat must be mounted in the back seat. The left hand passenger side of the car is safest for when parked on the side of the road and transferring your baby in and out of the car.

Make sure the baby seat is properly fastened and adjusted using a five or six-point harness.

Keep your little one in a rear-facing safety seat until they outgrow it.

By law, they must be rear-facing until they are at least six months old, but research shows the longer they stay in a rear-facing seat, the better.

Even two-year-old kids are fine in rear-facing seats, so long as they don’t exceed the sizing specified by the seat manufacturer.

Young Children

From 6 months to at least four years of age children must remain in the back seat, safely strapped into an approved, properly fastened and adjusted child restraint with an inbuilt harness.

That means a properly sized forward or rear-facing seat with a five or six-point harness is required for children aged between six months and four years.

Once your child reaches four years of age, they’re no longer required to use a child seat with a harness.

Whilst it’s not mandatory, it is still safest for your child to be seated in an approved, properly fastened and adjusted forward facing child restraint with an in-built harness.

The alternative to this is a properly positioned, approved booster seat and a seatbelt that is properly fastened and adjusted.

Until your child outgrows their child safety seat, it’s a good idea to keep using it.

Remember: you’re the parent and it’s your job to enforce safe car rules until you think your child is ready to progress.

Where a car has two or more rows of seats, kids under four years of age must not travel in the front seat.

School Age Kids

Children aged between four and seven years must not travel in the front seat unless all other seats are being used by children under seven years of age.

If this is the case, a child may travel in the front seat using an approved booster seat and a properly fastened and adjusted seatbelt.

Four to seven year old children travelling in the back seat are permitted to use a lap sash seatbelt, although a booster seat along with a properly adjusted seatbelt is the best combo.

It raises your child to a height where the belt crosses at their shoulder, not their neck or face which is much safer in the case of sudden stopping or an accident. It’s more comfortable as well!

Kids aged 7 years and older

From seven years of age and up, kids may ride in the front seat by law. That said, it’s still safest for youngsters to remain in the backseat as long as possible. In a collision, their bodies are more susceptible to injury from airbags, even when seated in a booster seat and properly buckled in.

For safety’s sake, your child should use a booster seat as long as they still fit.

In a collision, the booster seat positions them to avoid injuries that could have been avoided, such as neck injuries from the seatbelt.

Many car manufacturers recommend that front seat passengers be aged 12 years or older. If space permits, your kids are safer riding in the back seat until 12 years of age.

They may not like it, but failure to comply with child restraint requirements is a serious offence and my result in substantial fines and demerit points.

Besides, as an adult you know what’s best for your child. Most kids don’t like veggies, but that doesn’t mean they don’t have to eat them!

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What Does an AC Compressor Do?


November 2018

Air conditioner compressors are lifesavers for drivers living in hot climates or only experiencing summer months in cold areas. To be honest, the idea of AC alone is already promising. However, there should be a special air compressor to make that notion into reality.

The invention of AC had nothing to do with automobiles. That’s why air compressors exist to make the standard AC system compatible with cars. Now that we have realized that there is more to air conditioners than just simply providing us with cool temperature, let’s find out the answers to this question: “What does an AC compressor do?”

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How Important Is the Refrigerant?

Before anything else, it is a must to know first the function of refrigerant for the car’s AC system. Besides, refrigerant and air compressors go hand in hand.

The most straightforward way of explaining the purpose of refrigerant is that it is a type of fluid that turns hot air into cold air. Refrigerant’s importance as an automobile fluid is comparable to the likes of antifreeze and oil. Antifreeze is one of the factors that make it possible for people to use cars during cold weather or season. Meanwhile, oil is so essential for car movement that every vehicle must have a filter for it to ensure its maximum performance.

Refrigerant comes in two major forms: R-12 and R-134a. In the past, R-12 was the original type. However, in 1994, the United States banned the use of chlorofluorocarbon fluids after it was proven that CFM has bad effects to the ozone layer. Unfortunately, R-12 was filled with CFM.

After years of research and experimentation, R-134a is now the safer alternative compared to R-12. It still has chemicals, but at least it does not have a strong environmental impact unlike the latter.

What Are the Parts of the AC System?

To better understand the functions of an AC compressor, learn the components of the whole system first.


This component produces cold fluid by converting the properties of the hot gas. It is usually located before the radiator. From the air compressor, hot gas is radiated by the condenser. Then, the condenser continues depressurizing, cooling, and liquefying it for the dryer.


The one responsible for cooling the air and making it free from moisture is the evaporator. As soon as you turn on the AC, the evaporator makes sure that you will feel cool in just a matter of seconds. It is actually the final component before cool air finally reaches the passenger compartment. It is strategically located behind the dashboard. At the same time, it must absorb heat from the passenger area to completely give way to low temperatures.


Once the button is pressed to turn on the AC, a clutch activates the air compressor through electromagnetism. It aims to pressurize the refrigerant to make it pass the condenser until it reaches the evaporator. Then, a cycling clutch switch regulates or gauges the temperature inside the evaporator to keep the component from completely freezing.

Expansion Valve

There must be something that divides the evaporator and condenser. Good thing the AC system has an orifice tube or expansion valve. Starting from the condenser, the expansion valve gauges the pressure and heat. Meanwhile, for the sake of the evaporator, it controls the pressure of refrigerant.

The orifice tube, even though it is similar to the expansion valve, has an extra responsibility. It also helps to separate the impurities away from the AC system’s parts.


More about orifice tubes, what these components need is an accumulator, not a dryer. The accumulator removes moisture and dirt from the air that goes throughout the entire AC system. It also controls the refrigerant that enters the evaporator. This is important since too much refrigerant is bad for the air compressor.


While accumulators are for orifice tubes, receivers or dryers work with expansion valves. They focus on keeping the air compressor clean from moisture, dirt, and other harmful substances.

We mentioned before that the evaporator absorbs heat from the passenger compartment. To avoid putting the AC system at risk because of the area’s damaging airborne elements, the dryer collects all impurities – solid or liquid – from the filtered gas.

Filtering air is essential to prevent water from entering the air compressor. Also, it stops moisture from combining with refrigerant. When moisture and refrigerant mix together, they release acidic pollutants around the system.


Finally, we are going to discuss the AC compressor’s function in a nutshell. Basically, without a compressor, the whole system will never produce cool air. The system would still be able to absorb the passenger compartment’s atmospheric air, but that’s it. There would be no cycle, throwing the idea of a system.

As a warm-up for the detailed explanation of what does an AC compressor do, the main purpose of this component is to put pressure on the refrigerant and change the temperature when activated.

What Does an AC Compressor Do?

An air compressor is a trigger to start the AC system and an overseer to keep the cycle going. For more depth, let’s go over the whole system again to give you a clearer picture of what an AC compressor does.

The first thing you activate as soon as you press the AC button is the air compressor. To start the system, the compressor controls the temperature and pressure of the refrigerant. Then, the refrigerant passes the condenser to cool down. Next, it enters the dryer for the elimination of impurities. When it is finally filtered, the expansion valve lowers its pressure.

At last, the refrigerant enters the evaporator, extremely cold and completely free from moisture. It is the reason why the blower can pump out cool air all over the passenger compartment.

What Should We Know About AC Compressor Maintenance?

You would know if everything is okay in your car’s AC system if the passenger compartment is already cold within the first few minutes of activation, regardless of how hot it is outside. On the other hand, it is obvious that something is wrong if it takes too long for the car to get cold. In fixing the AC, the two options are recharge and replacement, depending on the level of malfunction. We do not recommend DIY fixing and maintenance unless you are a pro. The AC system’s circuitry is too complicated which has a lot to do with the compressor’s function of pressurizing the refrigerant. Only expert technicians can solve vehicle-related AC problems.


To refresh our memory about the answers to the question “What does an AC compressor do,” the keyword is the refrigerant. Even though refrigerant is the common denominator of all components of the system, the air compressor is the reason why this fluid is able to pass through each section while undergoing pressure and temperature changes. It is the reason why everything in the system works together.

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Extended Warranty and Its Types Explained


October 2018

When you go to buy a new car, looks, fuel economy and performance are certainly a part of the car-buying criteria. But there’s something more that we all expect from our car, and that is peace of mind. Nobody likes to make frequent visits to the service stations. Unlike older cars, it is sporadically possible to repair or refurbish a broken part in modern cars and hence replacement is the last resort. The fact is that no matter how reliable modern cars are, the spares are still expensive to replace. More importantly, you surely don’t want to have a hard time getting your car fixed, especially after the manufacturer warranty has lapsed. The only solution that you are left with to address the plethora of issues is extended warranty, which is basically a repair coverage after the manufacturer’s warranty is expired.

This concept, where, for a minimal investment, you can save your pockets and your car from the hassles, has not been unheard before. Most car manufacturers offer extended warranty, and some would even notify you to purchase it, before the standard warranty gets lapsed. You must be wondering whether these extended warranties are really worthwhile.

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But before going any further and purchasing the warranty, it is important to make up your mind on which type of warranty you need for your car. So, let’s dig deep in this and know more about the types of extended warranties.

Types of Extended Warranties

Primarily, there are two types of extended warranties – the one offered by the car manufacturers or their authorized dealerships and the after-market warranty offered by third-party vendors (third party would be an insurance or a warranty company).

Manufacturer’s Extended Warranty

Don’t get confused between the manufacturer’s warranty and the extended warranty, as they are entirely different. Buying an extended warranty at the time of purchase of the vehicle is the right thing to do, as the price of the package may vary with time passing. This is because most manufacturers have after-sale support for cars till a particular time (for a defined period starting from the date of purchase or for certain kilometres run, whichever comes first).

Just like any other service contracts, different extended warranties can vary in what they cover. Make sure that you are aware of what portion of the vehicle is covered under the extended warranty package.

Third-Party Extended Warranty

A third-party extended warranty is often referred to as an after-market warranty, which is a service contract from an independent retailer that has no direct business relationship with the auto manufacturer. Although it can be purchased at any time, it is best to purchase these warranties before the manufacturer’s warranty gets expired, to get a cheaper quote. These warranty packages offer different coverages starting from the basic coverage, like major engine components, transmission, and front and rear drive axles to the highest protection option, which is not the same as the manufacturer’s bumper-to-bumper coverage, yet similar. This means that some parts will be left, so don’t forget to go through the contract.

In case of crash tests, the worthiness of a structure is generally tested by colliding it with a stationary object. In real, a car may undergo collision with a bigger and even heavier car, in such a case, chances are that a car with more weight may prove to be safer than a car with lighter construction. So, in general, a recently launched car, that has more weight would be comparatively safer than a car that’s comparatively light.

Parts Coverage

The most important thing to be noted is that both of these types of warranties may vary in terms of parts they cover. So below we have listed some detailed auto parts for your general understanding that are covered under these warranties. However, it should be noted that the list is only for reference; not all manufacturers or third-party vendors would cover these spares and it may also vary according to the package you opt for.

Internal components of the engine include oil pump, crankshaft and pulley, connecting rods, gudgeon pins, piston and rings, inlet and exhaust valves, springs and guides, cylinder block and cylinder head, cylinder head gasket, camshaft, rocker arm, etc.

Components in the manual gearbox include gears, shafts, hubs and rings, etc., whereas in the automatics, you can think of brake bands, oil pump, bearings and bushes, valve, drive plate, and transmission gears as well.

Parts of suspension and steering system covered are rack and pinion, steering column, steering box, and power steering pump.

The braking system includes master cylinder, brake booster and vacuum pump.

Parts of fuel system covered are mechanical and electrical fuel pumps, injectors, air flow meter, fuel accumulator, fuel distributor, warm-up regulator, cold start valve, pressure damper, auxiliary air regulator, deceleration valve, engine speed sensor, ECU and throttle body.

Diesel Injection System parts include injection pump, injectors, glow plugs and electromagnetic cut-off.

Air conditioning and cooling system parts like compressor, condenser, evaporator reservoir, thermostat switch and fan motor, heater core, and AC switch are included.

Electrical components like starter motor and solenoid switch, alternator, rectifier, regulator, ignition coil, cooling fan motor, power window motors, ignition switch, relay, thermostat switch, speedometer, oil pressure switch, temperature gauge, and fuel gauge and horns (if dual tone) are covered. Oil seal parts like crankshaft seal, camshaft oil seal, auxiliary shaft oil seal, gear box oil seal and drive shaft seal are covered.

All this sounds great, yet we would strongly advise you to read the terms and conditions before applying for a warranty. There could be clauses that might nullify the warranty; so it’s better to read the documents first and make sure that the warranty stays intact.

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